REVIEW: Bistrot Pierre
The mantra ‘location, location, location’ does not only apply to where you live, as Kirsty and Phil of the Channel 4 house-hunting show of the same name stipulate.
It’s pretty crucial with eating out too. Whether it’s handy for public transport if you're well refreshed or not overlooking a row of bins down a dark alleyway, the setting matters.
Well, Bistrot Pierre ticks every one of the triple ‘location’ boxes, particularly in a town where there are few eating places right on the promenade.
On this visit, the panoramic view is of wave after wave of ‘white horses’ galloping into the Eastbourne shore on a fiercely windy day at high tide (our image at the top was taken in the summer...)
A Turneresque gathering of clouds over Beachy Head gives way to a brief glow as a weak, wintry sun tries to make its presence felt.
But inside, on a January lunchtime, there’s a set menu to briefly distract our attention from the seascape.
This was not my first visit and it always seems to be busy, unsurprisingly with that fabulous view.
So there was a short wait at the front desk but a table was swiftly cleared to accommodate my request for a window seat.
The staff, who work non-stop, are the right mix of professional and friendly, laughing politely at our jokes, which they had doubtless heard a thousand times before.
We each went for the £22.95 ‘Menu Pierre’ which, curiously on their app, is marked firmly as ‘Not available in Eastbourne’.
Well, it is and I ate it. It’s available most of the week, except Saturdays after 5pm.
There are four starters, five mains and four desserts to choose from with vegetarian choices, although no vegan. The deal includes a glass of wine, pint of beer or a soft drink, so it’s one to note for these cost-of-living squeezed times.
Wikipedia (so it must be right...) defines a bistro (or bistrot) as a small restaurant, originally in Paris, serving moderately-priced simple meals in a modest setting – French home-style cooking.
So, taking the traditional approach, I went for French onion soup followed by steak frites. All four of us did.
The soup was dark, oniony and well flavoured, the main attributes you want from a bowl of onion soup. It came with a sliver of crisp, cheese encrusted bread.
As it turned out, a larger chunk of carb would have sustained us better during the wait of about 40 minutes before the mains arrived – perhaps the kitchen, as so many are, was short staffed.
That gave us plenty of time to gape uncomprehendingly at a group of wind surfers casually gliding across the heaving waves despite the winter storm and rushing gale.
The steak (pink for me) was utterly reliable with a small tub of fries, a mini pot of peppercorn sauce and a modest helping of salad leaves.
Reliable is an under-rated word. It’s what we want our plumbers, builders and dentists to be.
And there is also much to be said for a restaurant and a dish being utterly reliable and exactly what you wanted when you ordered.
After all, McDonald’s has done pretty well by being utterly reliable across the entire planet for more than 70 years.
If you’re in the market for a foam or a jus or fawning waiting staff, this may not be the venue for you.
It’s a modest portion, which was fine for me, but for those avoiding Veganuary like a pandemic, you can pay supplements of £3 for an 8oz rump or £6 for 8oz sirloin.
For dessert, the crème brûlée was wide and shallow, giving it the perfect custard base to crunchy topping ratio.
Bistrot Pierre is a chain which started in 1994 and, according to its website, it was proud to open its 25th restaurant in its 25th year – in Eastbourne.
It’s fair to say it knows its customers and exactly what they want – and there’s nothing wrong with that.
And that view!
Bistrot Pierre, King Edward's Parade, Eastbourne BN21 4BY
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